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Age: 44
Height: 5-foot-10
Weight: 165 pounds
Home: Seattle, Washington |
| Ed
Viesturs is America's leading high altitude mountaineer, having
climbed many of the world's most challenging summits, including
ascending Mount Everest five times. He holds this record with
one other person. Viesturs is the only American and one of
five people to climb the six highest peaks in the world --
all without supplemental oxygen. He is currently on a quest
to climb all 14 of the world's highest mountains (above 8,000
meters) without the use of supplemental oxygen. He has successfully
climbed twelve to date. |
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I first attempt a Himalayan peak, Viesturs explains,
I climb without bottled oxygen, even if it keeps me
from reaching the summit. My personal goal is to see how I
can perform, to experience the mountain as it is without reducing
it to my level. For me, how I reach the top is more important
than whether I do. Once climbers are on oxygen,
Viesturs continues, they become stronger. But its
a bit of a crutch. Without it, I dont have a mechanical
apparatus that can fail on me and thereby endanger me. The
oxygen system is awkward. Sunglasses wont fit over the
mask, so I have to wear goggles, which fog up. Also, I cant
seem to suck enough air fast enough through the valves of
the maskI have to rip it off to take a full breath.
Most importantly, Im aware of the tricks that altitude
and hypoxia can play on you. While climbing, I test myself,
asking myself whether Im aware of the conditions, of
my actions, and of what is around me. Exhaustion and hypoxia
can cause one to lose it mentally, and I never allow myself
to fall into this state. When Im guiding, however, I
always use oxygen. Youre there for the clients, and
oxygen does enable you to function better, both physically
and mentally. |
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Viesturs
was born in 1959 and grew up in the flatlands of Rockford,
Illinois, where the highest objects on the horizon were
water towers. His parents were immigrants his father,
a mechanical design engineer from Latvia; his mother from
Germany who arrived in the early 1950s. In high school,
Viesturs read and was captivated by Annapurna, the French
climber Maurice Herzog's famous and grisly account of the
first ascent of an 8,000-meter peak in 1950. I reminded
Viesturs that Herzog's tale had a lot more frostbite, amputation,
and near-death suffering than it did fun. "That's not
what interested me," he replied. "What I liked
was that these guys had a goal and they just wouldn't give
up. They spent months and months finding the mountain; then
they climbed it. So simple, so basic. I'm a very goal-oriented
person, and I like things that take a long time to accomplish."
After some beginner's rock climbing at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin,
Viesturs left the Midwest for the University of Washington
in 1977 and inaugurated a long-running obsession with Mount
Rainier. "I could see it from my dorm window, and it
became my focus," he says. "I was maniacal about
it. Every weekend, I'd bum a ride or hitchhike, rain or
shine, just to be on the mountain." He eventually landed
a job as a guide with Rainier Mountaineering Inc., then
began a four-year period combining veterinary studies at
Washington State University in Pullman and guiding during
the summer. After becoming a vet in 1987, Viesturs practiced
in two clinics run by friends who reluctantly gave him months
off at a time to climb in the Himalayas. Finally, his absences
were too long and too frequent, and he was forced to choose:
be a vet or be a climber. He chose the mountains.
Ed Discovered
SOLE Custom Footbeds in 2003 and we've been building an
incredible relationship with him ever since. He loves our
footbeds and chose to wear our product above anything else
- literally - to the top of Mount Everest. We are extremely
proud of him and we wish him safe passage on all his endeavors.
For
more info please visit www.edviesturs.com. |
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